Burdock & Co, Vancouver
Andrea Carlson, another veteran of John Bishop’s incredible kitchen which has launched so many fine careers, has landed on the soon-to-be-trendy Main Street. The relatively tiny restaurant is a perfect canvas for her to practice her culinary art. I love her totally shareable menu. The wine list alone will make your mouth water…literally. We don’t order a particular vintage or winery, we order it by the fabulous descriptives! “Crunchy raspberries, minerals, singed herbs” or “Soft, juicy and reclaiming Beaujolais one bottle at a time” or “Packed like apples and pears in a tin can.” Hard not to have one of each.
Then there is the food! Chef Carlson’s voice comes through loud and clear. The organic ingredients are woven into incredible dishes. One of the most evolved is their Agassiz risotto with fermented bran bubble and trumpet mushrooms, Farmhouse Heidi Cheese. Made with rice grown in the rich alluvial soils of the Fraser River, at first to make sake, this delicious dish is pure genius on all levels.
We started our spring time feast with the freshest shaved asparagus and peppery arugula salad topped with an absolutely lusty poached Urban Digs Egg. Loved the sweet cicely vinaigrette. One of the mainstays already for this very young restaurant is her fried chicken and pickles. It’s served with crispy skin and charred chili vinegar. We ordered a bowl of pickled “seasonal” vegetables to crunch on and they turned out to be pure spring with fiddleheads and asparagus leading the charge.
With spring comes spot prawns on almost every menu in town and Chef Carlson’s version was fabulous. She boiled them, fried the heads in a great spice mix and served them with yogurt. Her clean, inventive style of cooking makes dining fun and intelligent. Sunroot and mustard greens spark the wheat berry risotto that’s ringed with smoked crema. One of the icons of the seasonal fishery, magnificent B.C. halibut, is braised with spring radish and hop shoots and served with pine mushroom & burdock tea. She finishes the dish with fried burdock and hop salt.
Desserts are simple and delicious. Yogurt and honey from Hives for Humanity… cookies baked to order with malted milk…and salted caramel apple pot pie with homemade ice cream.
Burdock & Co. is one of about 250 restaurants that celebrate Food Day across Canada. Contact them at the number below.
Burdock & Co. est l’un des 250 restaurants à travers tout le Canada qui participent au Journée des terroirs.
Burdock & Co
2702 Main Street,
Vancouver, BC V5T 3E8
T: 604 879 0077