Coy Wolf Bistro, Sackville, New Brunswick
Finding a restaurant of this calibre in relatively rural New Brunswick is an utter joy. Chef Alan Barbour is at the stoves and Sarah Evans, his wife and partner, is one of the most dedicated foragers I’ve met. Let’s begin with the cocktail she names the “Seaside Negroni” which includes pickled samphire greens that she’s harvested. Then continue to the hop shoots that she snips in their courtyard for Alan to work his magic on. The night I was there he wrapped them in paper thin slices of house-cured stesa bacon (it’s not smoked) and served the long pencil shaped bundle with yarrow leaves and steamed wild mustard. Sarah makes the raspberry vinegar to top the fat Brunswick oysters.
The P.E.I. mussels filled the shells that he steamed in Sarah’s homemade chokecherry wine and heaped with ‘frites’. The sauce was enriched with cream and may have been the most delicious rendition of this dish I’ve ever tasted.
The lobster noisette was spring in a bowl…sweet local bay lobster, curled fiddlehead fronds, browned bits of their cured pork and small strips of Irish Moss, a seaweed that is too-rarely used on regional menus. Of course there was browned butter!
They serve cheeses from the province and also Nova Scotia … for me a perfect ending…but the crème brulée is a favourite amongst the regulars.
The motto of this creative pair is simply “Our food tells our story” and from the ever changing menu, it certainly does.
Coy Wolf est l’un des 250 restaurants à travers tout le Canada qui participent au Journée des terroirs. .
Coy Wolf Bistro
19 Bridge Street, Sackville,
New Brunswick E4L 3N6